Chill meets sizzle in this refreshing Korean wrap.

Ssam -- wraps -- are stuffed with purple rice, beef (or other meat), and fried onion off a hot plate. Their dashing partners: a side of sweet onion-tomato relish topped on a leaf vegetable.

Some lazily call these "lettuce wraps," but that doesn't do the selection of leaves justice. Romaine lettuce, napa cabbage, Swiss chard and red leaf lettuce -- all are fair game for dinner.

But remember, these aren't hard rules. Ssam has one necessity only: serve and eat as your cravings tug you.